The trip to Thailand started with a 12-hour red-eye out of Seattle (SEA). From there, we had a 1-2 hour layover in Taipei (TPE) before flying to Hong Kong International (HKG); the flight from Hong Kong to Phuket (PKE) wouldn’t be until the next night, leaving us with about 15 hours to see Hong Kong.

Customs and immigration at HKG were relatively low-key and only took about 30 minutes total. We were required to fill out basic information (name, passport number, location staying in Hong Kong, etc.) and were given a slip of paper as we processed through; we were then required to return that slip of paper upon flying out of Hong Kong. I kept my passport and important documents like these in a passport sleeve so as not to lose them; airports are stressful enough without having to frantically look for/not be able to find documents needed to leave a country.


Gladys met us outside of baggage claim, and from there we bought tickets for the Airport Express into downtown. We rode the two stops to Hong Kong Station, which took about 30 minutes and only cost about $15/person (HK$100). It’s a very simple system to figure out, and, like much of Hong Kong, signs and announcements are in English as well as Chinese.

Throughout the rest of the day, we used taxis or walked to get around. Although there can be some barriers to communication with accents and pronunciation (in both directions), the drivers do speak English, and we felt comfortable relying on them throughout the day. On our own, Kai and I would have probably taken the light rail more often; it seemed as if the system was clean, affordable, and reliable but would have taken more time than taxis did. We went back to the apartment for a much-needed shower and change of clothes after traveling for so long. While there, we learned a little about living in Hong Kong, specifically about housing and the standard of living. Everything in Hong Kong is very expensive, including housing; families of 5 or 6 will often only be able to afford a 300 sq. ft. apartment, which in my experience is cramped enough with 2 people. Wealthier families have their own large spaces as well as (very small) living quarters and a bathroom for their housekeepers/nannies. Some are respected and appreciated for their role in caring for the home and children, while others are given pay below what is required by law and expected to be grateful for little more than scraps and a roof over their heads. It was very eye-opening to think of the cultural and financial challenges that many people find themselves in around the world and the similarities between these situations in the U.S. and abroad.


We walked through public parks, shopping centers, and side streets on our way to lunch downtown. Before visiting, I had no idea what to expect of Hong Kong, but I found a busy, modern city whose ambiance felt very similar to New York City. The influence of British colonization is still apparent, as many Western brands and styles are represented, international companies operate out of the city, and many of the residents, especially the younger generations, speak English as well as Chinese.


The biggest surprise was actually the weather; it was very hot and humid, and I was grateful that all of the businesses we went into had air conditioning. No one seemed to be terribly bothered by the weather, but although I’m from the American South and therefore no stranger to humidity, I have been desensitized after a few years in milder climates 😉

We ate at a Vietnamese restaurant, Bep, in the Central district of downtown and happened to be out during the lunch rush. As everyone has an hour to get to and eat lunch before returning to their offices, the service was extremely efficient without sacrificing friendliness or quality. I got a lime soda that was even better than the La Croix I’ve been obsessed with at home and a lemongrass-fed beef banh mi sandwich that I am still dreaming about weeks later. If you’ve never had banh mi, it’s pickled vegetables (carrots, onions, cilantro, zucchini) with hoisin sauce on a crusty French baguette. It was easily one of the top 10 best things I’ve ever eaten.


After lunch, we went up to The Peak, which Gladys described as a quintessential Hong Kong tourist stop. We took a taxi up the winding, switchback roads, but you can get there via bus, minibus, or on foot (via hiking trails) as well; the drive took about 20 minutes so I can’t imagine how long the hike takes, but I’m sure it’s an interesting juxtaposition of hiking through the trees next to a modern city. The Skyview Terrace has views of downtown Hong Kong, Kowloon, and the bay from the top of the mall; it was a clear, beautiful day, and although the breeze was little respite from the heat, it was amazing to see the city from such a vantage point. Tickets for just the Terrace were only about $7 (HK$48) and therefore absolutely worth the trip, especially for a short stay in Hong Kong.


We picked Kai’s cousin up from school and were able to see the south side of the island, which is quieter and more residential. We walked around a market and grocery stores (my favorite way to get a feel for a place); there we learned about how expensive food is in Hong Kong. Almost everything is imported from China (less expensive but with fewer food regulations), Australia, Europe, or the U.S. For example, raw meat can cost around $20, depending on where it comes from; produce is also expensive, and nothing can go to waste. Considering these costs, it’s almost more cost-efficient to eat out for meals, especially when you also factor in the utilities and time taken to cook and prepare meals.

Our last few hours before heading back to the airport were spent going back downtown for dim sum. I have never experienced dim sum before and as a picky eater with a shellfish allergy, was kind of nervous that I wouldn’t be able to anything. Boy, was I wrong. I gorged myself on fried rice, pork buns, garlic spinach, green beans, and oolong tea. The experience itself was fun, with the seemingly constant stream of steaming plates and baskets of food being brought to the table. It’s also relatively cheap, especially for 4 people to eat.


We were able to check our bags before getting back on the Airport Express and once again rode the easy 2 stops. The Hong Kong airport was a little confusing in terms of finding where to go for immigration, to our gates, etc. but was ultimately clean and included such dining options as Popeye’s Chicken (but why?).

As I’ve said before, I had no idea what to expect of Hong Kong, but 15 hours was just enough to whet my appetite and leave me wanting to go back. Gladys and her daughter were a lot of fun and such great hosts, taking the time to share their city with us; we were only able to see as much as we were because of their hospitality. I’ll get into my first experience with Asian travel in another post, but Hong Kong felt like a good intermediary between Western and Asian cultures so that Thailand wasn’t such a sharp contrast.

Next stop: Thailand!